Pink and Purple and Trying to be a Trooper

Exploring and adapting to new places and challenges with my bright pink backpack, I am studying international development and anthropology and trying to make sense of the diversity of human experience across the globe. Back in Canada and back into the grind, still trying to make sense of my adventures.

Wednesday 14 November 2012

Starting to "Do" Development

I have good news of recoveries from my last post!

First of all, I have secured a place at Tawodep! They are planning on performing a large-scale evaluation of their projects in the new year, so there will be lots of work for two interns to perform, and since the director of the organization has assured me of this, Marika, the other girl interested, seems very happy to work with me! I'm very relieved about this, and I'm really looking forward to starting work. The only small problem is that they're not government funded, and rely largely on individuals or civil society groups for charitable donations in terms of funding. While they still perform their training functions whether they have funding or not, most of the action at Tawodep is reliant on donations, so I just have to hope that they will have funding when I am there so that I can see how everything is done, and hopefully help out.

Also, on one of my sharetaxi rides across Tamale recently, I noticed a sign for a Habitat for Humanity build. My paternal grandparents, and most of my dad's side of the family, has been actively involved in Habitat for Humanity in Canada, so the sign caught my eye. In fact, when my grandfather died about eight years ago, the family sort of adopted one of the builds in my dad's hometown of Brighton in his honour. I remember visiting the build site, and I'm pretty sure there were matching tee-shirts involved. I'd like to say that I helped, but I don't think I was very useful as I was about 12 and pretty much didn't know anything and was afraid to get in the way, do something wrong, or get my hands dirty. Still, Habitat for Humanity has a special place in my heart. I would like to go and check out the build at some point while I'm here, and just see what's happening with it, see if someone will talk to me and tell me how it's organized here. I'm interested to see how it differs from the builds in Canada, but I can't for the life of me remember where I saw the sign. I guess I'll just have to keep my eyes peeled as I go about my life here over the next three weeks.

It's hard to believe that in three weeks this course will be over, and I'll have a whole month to travel and explore and do my own thing before my placement starts in January. It's going by so quickly. I'm really enjoying the course we're taking here in Tamale. Today we did a mock mini-placement, which is about as convoluted as it sounds. In January we start our placements, but next week we have mini-placements, in which we will be shipped out to communities near Bolgatanga for three days to interact with students and teachers and parents and administrators to try to evaluate the effectiveness of the Capitation Grant system. Other groups investigated other aspects of education, healthcare, and livelihood empowerment programs, but all were pro-poor government policies in the Upper East Region of Ghana. 

In Ghana, free compulsory basic education is provided by the Government up to the Junior High School level, and every school is given a Capitation Grant to help pay for cultural activities, sports programs, and minor maintenance and repairs. This grant, we learned, is equal to 1.5 Cidies per student per term. We were also meant to evaluate programs of providing free uniforms and exercise books to underprivileged students, though we found that there was much less information to be had about the logistics of these programs, as they are government programs, but not mandated by acts of parliament, so the allocation of funds to these programs are liable to serious fluctuation.  

In order to do these assessments, we will be using a toolkit referred to as Participatory Learning Approaches (sometimes called Participatory Rural Appraisal). The theory is that by involving community members and stakeholders in the information generating and planning processes of development work, not only will they be more empowered to hold service providers accountable for fulfilling their rights to education, health, and so on, but that they will also have a sense of ownership over programs and initiatives and be more willing to work on them, monitor them, and maintain them as needed. For the purposes of these assessments, we hope that by interacting with community members on both the supply side of the service (administration and teachers) and the demand side, we will be able to get a more holistic understanding of the challenges that face it, as well as helping the community to understand why there are problems, what they are entitled to, and what can be done to address issues both on the supply and demand side of the service. 

The toolkit includes semi-structured interviews, focus group discussions and task groups, resource maps, rating and prioritizing strategies, and community scorecards. All of these tools are very simple in theory, but can be challenging to implement when one walks into a tiny village in West Africa where no one speaks English, and few understand why we are here (we're not Peace Corp, we're not missionaries, and we're not representing an NGO, so we're kind of a confusing group).

In order to prepare us for this ordeal and its associated challenges, we did a mock mini-placement today. It was just for the one day, and we're not actually being marked on our report for this one, so it was a great learning opportunity. We got to know our facilitator, Elizabeth, a little bit, and tried our hands at dealing with some of the most common problems in this line of work.

The first one was waiting. 

We meant to speak with the District Education Officer, but he was not there, so after greeting a lot of people, and a lot of waiting, we eventually spoke to the District Accountant, who ended up being very kind and very informative. Still, it put us about an hour or so behind schedule.

The second one was also waiting.

When we got to the village, we had to meet with the chief in order to officially "enter" the village and to have permission to perform our work. That too, involved a lot of waiting, as the chief could not be found. We ended up greeting a sub-chief instead of whatever level of chief we had planned on greeting. Regardless, we met him, and it was nice, and we got our permissions to proceed.

The third problem was structuring our session.

The question period was very informative and rewarding, but we found it challenging to transition into some of the more abstract parts of the session, namely compiling the scorecard. We identified components and indicators of problems with the services from the question period, and wanted rated in terms of severity, which is fairly simple in theory, and for the most part the community seemed to understand. The problem was that the names we gave them, like "Time Frame" and "Inclusion in Decision Making Processes" proved to be very difficult to translate into Dagbani, and it was difficult making a "thing" out of the problems (such as the waiting period after the start of the term before students receive their subsidized uniforms) that were discussed in the question period. Still, a huge smile and a small effort to speak the language goes a long way. When we identified our categories to be rated, I asked for the translations for "waiting time" and the like, and said them loudly with a huge stupid smile whilst holding up an item to the group. Time was represented by a bowl, quantity of uniforms by an empty water sachet, inclusion in decision making by a pen, etc. As a group, we had them recognize and repeat what each item represented, and from there asked them to rate how happy they were with the pen, or the water sachet, by placing stones in a grid that we drew with a stick in the dirt, with boxes representing very poor, poor, fair, good, and very good for each item. It seemed to work fairly well in the end.

The last, and biggest problem, was inclusion.

It was hard to get the women to talk. There were about as many women present as men, but they didn't sit together, and the women didn't talk unless we explicitly asked them  question. Also, when it came time for voting, and the women were given stones, the community talked at them very loudly and seemed to influence their votes, although without understanding Dagbani I really can't be sure. There were some children present, but most were too young to try to include in the process, and those that were old enough didn't stay for long.  Even within the men and women groups, as always, there were some who dominated the discussion and some whose voices were not heard. If we'd had more time to split into focus groups, or better yet, to do short individual interviews, perhaps this could have been better mitigated. Even if we shared a common language, we could have mediated the discussion a little better to gear it towards those who were less vocal, but as we were speaking through an interpreter, this was difficult to do. We managed to get some opinions from the women, and a few of the less talkative men, but in general this was something we struggled with.

It was a really good learning experience though. I mean, we are always taught that we have to try to get all members to participate, and we always want to do that, but we saw today why it can be so hard to enact that in practice. Hopefully this experience will help us to come up with some strategies to address this issue in our real mini-placement. We have to do our mock reports tomorrow, and then our professor (who's kind of a rockstar; everyone in development or government in the area seems to know him, and he's so engaging and informative) and the rest of the class will give us suggestions for next time.

There's not much else to report from this end, other than life continues to be life in Africa. There were ants in my sugar cubes, so I must either find ziploc bags (which I have not seen anywhere here, amazingly) or start keeping my sugar in the fridge. I found that nothing is more wonderful than a fanchoco on the walk home from the sharetaxi stop on a sunny afternoon when it's 40 degrees. A fanchoco is one of a line of fan-something products that are all frozen and delicious. Fanchoco tastes kind of like a fudgesicle in a little bag (kind of like the ones that Yoplait used to make tubes of yogurt in) about the size of Canadian paper money. Other flavours include fanice, which kind of tastes like coolwhip, fanyogo which apparently tastes like strawberry frozen yogurt, and fandango which I have not yet tried, but very much want to because of its name. This one is sort of mango flavoured. 

I thought we were done with essay writing when we left Accra, but apparently I was wrong.  I have an analytical essay on the Participatory Learning Approach due on Friday, and then my mini placement report at the end of the course. More Northern adventures to come! I'll keep you posted.

Thursday 8 November 2012

Toughing it Out


Today was rough.
The power has been out in our house since last night at about 8:00. It was so hard to sleep last night, because of the heat and lack of fan, so that probably contributed pretty significantly to my difficulties dealing with the morning’s challenges. The power was still out, and our water stopped flowing. This was not too concerning, because we have two polytanks (big black plastic reservoirs for water) and a concrete underground reservoir. Unfortunately, these appeared to be empty when we tried to use them this morning, so I washed my face with a drinking water sachet and got dressed.
Then there was a cockroach.
It wasn’t as huge and terrifying as some that I have seen. Actually, I’ve only ever seen one other, and it was in a train station in Malaysia when I was nine. It was about as big as my foot, which I know because it ran towards me and almost under my foot as I went to step. I’m pretty sure I screamed when I saw that one. I handled this one a little better; I just stood there and cursed at it. Soon after that, I realized that it was already dead, which was nice. Probably this was a result of the liberal application of raid that we’ve been practicing around all the baseboards in our house. Holly demonstrated her unflappability and resolve as she swept it up and threw it outside for me. She was my hero for the morning.
Shortly after that was taken care of, I dropped a still sealed water sachet and it exploded all over my room, which was fun. It got my clothes that I’d just brought in off the line (and had to shake a host of moths and ants off of) all nice and wet again, so that made me really happy. But I think the most personally upsetting part of my morning happened when we stopped to get egg sandwiches on the way to school. I was sitting there eating, minding my own business, and I saw that one of the girls next to me had a mosquito bite on her leg that she had scratched open a bit so it was bleeding. It was not a very large cut, nor very deep, so it should not have been a big deal.
What was upsetting about it was that there were flies in it.
Apparently flies here really really like open wounds, so there were a few of them, that she didn’t seem to notice, packed together and not really moving in a little triangle of horror on top of the cut. At first I actually thought they were biting her, but when she brushed them away, it was clear that they were just hanging out on top of a cut that already existed. I helped her chase them off (they were quite stubborn) and gave her some polysporin because flies carry all kinds of nastiness here. Luckily, the flies didn’t seem to like the polysporin very much, so they kept away after that. Still, it wasn’t too upsetting.
What was upsetting was realizing that I had the same thing on three different mosquito bites an hour later, and not knowing how long they had been there. When I discovered this I freaked out a little bit and liberally applied polysporin to every mosquito bite and cut I could locate.
School at least was good today. It was very engaging and I enjoyed it. I haven’t done much this afternoon, but to put a great end to that wonderful morning I had jollof at a chop bar that had questionable crunchy bits in it, and I found out that the other girl who was interested in TAWODEP, the NGO I wanted to do my placement with, has already contacted them and arranged her placement, and although we’re technically allowed to have up to two students at an NGO, they’re a small organization and I don’t think it’s likely that they’ll have enough work for the both of us. So it looks like I’m going to have to keep looking, which is not awesome because the deadline to choose an NGO is coming up quickly. Hopefully things will turn around tomorrow. Today just hasn’t been a good one.
I know that sometimes it’s the hardest parts of adventures like this that will end up being the most rewarding, and that will teach me the most when this is all over. I try to remind myself of this, because right now it just feels hard. I’m so aware of how uncomfortable or unsafe or inconvenient just about everything is here, and it’s hard to feel like it’s worth it when I’m afraid I’ll end up at a placement that I don’t enjoy or care about. Still, I’m sure there are other NGOs that I’ll find interesting, and I’m sure I’ll have better days.
To quote an excellent animated film (that I recently found out features the creative genius of Joss Whedon and the voice talents of Leonard Nimoy), “When you’ve hit rock bottom, the only place left to go is up.” While I know I’m still not really at rock bottom, I still have a lot to be appreciative of, it’s nice to think that things will probably turn up soon.
I’ll just have to grit my teeth and tough it out until then. I’ll keep you posted!

Tuesday 6 November 2012

Way Up North


The last several days have been very busy as we made our way up North.
It was about a seven hour bus ride from Accra to Kumasi. Leaving my host family was pretty sad, and my host mother even cried as I left. I’m happy I’ll be coming back to visit them in December.
Kumasi was fun. We were supposed to tour a cacao farm on our way there, but there was a miscommunication with the tour guide, so that didn’t end up happening.
We did, however, see the museum at the Chief’s Palace. It was a nice museum, and the palace was quite opulent because this chief is the ruler of the whole Asante kingdom, which is the largest in all of Ghana.
I had to miss out on going to the Kente village and a lake that was apparently gorgeous because I was sick.
We found a restaurant with really good Indian food and delicious ice cream. I had fresh lime soda like I haven’t had since I was in Sri Lanka. It was nice. Sarah and Rockson and I also braved the largest open air market in West Africa in order to find costumes for our Halloween party. It was so huge and crowded and crazy, but I held my own. I was very impressed with myself, actually. I bargained the price of the dress I bought down to almost half the original price, and when Rockson was wandering off, I got his attention (in typical Ghanaian fashion) by hissing, which was oddly fun. I felt like I was starting to fit in. I even bargained in Twi!
And then we hopped on our bus and drove for another seven hours north to Tamale. There we got all dressed up to celebrate Halloween in a country where most people have never even heard of such a thing. I dressed up as a pink panther. The dress was ugly, but it was only about five dollars, and it was perfect for the costume.
One of the first things we did when we got here, actually, was to go to the regional Chief’s palace. It’s customary to greet the Chief and explain your reasons for coming to a community when you arrive, and to thank him when you leave. It was a very interesting experience, and it was very awkward and scary for a lot of it, but I’m really glad we went. We were given water, which looked extremely questionable, but we couldn’t refuse without causing grave offense, so we all just took the bowl and touched it to our lips before passing it on. We were also given kola nuts to chew. They were a pleasant texture, and I wasn’t sure if we were supposed to swallow them or not, but I didn’t see anyone else spitting, so I did. They were very bitter. They tasted almost exactly like the bitter aftertaste that tea gets when you let it steep for too long. The chief seemed nice, though we only spoke to him through Rockson’s interpreting. He got dressed in his Regalia and invited us to take lots of pictures, so we did. It was nice.
The guesthouse we stayed at in Tamale was not so nice. The fan prevented me from putting up my mosquito net, and the door didn’t even pretend to seal, so I got about a trillion mosquito bites, despite spraying myself and my sheets with deet before bed every night. Furthermore, the ceiling was almost uniformly polka-dotted with white circles of mold, and I think I was allergic to the spores. The accommodation was arranged and paid for by the Trent in Ghana program, so we didn’t have a choice in the matter. But the beds were comfy, at least, and the bathroom was clean, except for the moldy ceiling.
We went on a daytrip to Bolgatanga, which is the capital of the Upper East region. It’s pretty close to both Burkina Faso and Togo, so there was a lot of French. It was a really nice city, and we had an NGO fair that I really enjoyed. Katie and Sarah and I all found NGOs that we were interested in. I found one called TAWODEP, the Talensi Women’s Development Program. It’s a really cool organization that puts women in the community who engage in income generating activities (like shea butter production or batik fabric dying) into groups to help maximize efficiency and to help them negotiate loans with the banks. It also serves as a not for profit middle man for larger orders that any one producer in the community would not be able to meet. It provides capacity building workshops and vocational training for the women too. It’s especially cool because (unlike a lot of NGOs and charity projects) it doesn’t introduce or try to teach activities that aren’t already practiced in the communities, it just facilitates the cooperation of smaller producers and helps them engage with markets on a larger scale. The woman who runs the program seems really nice, and she said that she could help me find accommodation either in the community of Talensi or in nearby Bolgatanga, and that I could bike between the two. I think this would be a really good place for me.
The only thing I’m concerned about is that there was another girl from the program who also had her eye on this place, so I just have to make sure I keep on top of things to make sure I get it first. There was another NGO that did similar work, but specifically with widows in Bolgatanga that I could fall back on, but its main mandate was advocacy instead of economic empowerment, so it’s not quite my cup of tea. Still, I’m sure I would enjoy it. We’ll see how it all turns out.
The next day we had The Great Race: Tamale, a series of activities organized by our non-academic coordinator to get us familiar with the city. It was a lot of fun, and very helpful. We learned the sharetaxi routes (they run regular routes like buses, but they’re taxi cabs, and you pay between 20 and 80 peshwas depending on how far you’re going) to get around. Our tasks included going to the new hospital and finding the cost of a Malaria test, the cost of the most recommended malaria medications, finding Kooseh (deep fried bean-patties sold on the street) and asking about headache remedies at the Herbal Garden. In performing the last task we actually got invited into Madame Tamaiko’s living room. She runs the herbal garden, and is pretty much the authority on traditional medicine. She sat us down and talked to us for a good thirty minutes (contributing to our defeat in the Race) about the value of traditional medicine and how important it is that traditional healers and western doctors learn to work together to provide safe, adequate, and affordable healthcare for Ghana. It was really interesting, and well worth losing the race for.
Now we’ve finally moved into our more permanent residence here. Thirteen of us girls are sharing a house. It’s pretty big, and I share a room with Sarah. We share a bathroom down the hall with the two other two-person rooms. On top of that, there’s a room of four and one of three (each with bunk beds) that each have en suite bathrooms. We all share a kitchen, but it’s relatively spacious, and the living room is quite large. There’s a porch and a large yard with a bunch of trees, one of which produces mangos, so we’re very excited. We’ve been told we’ll have hammocks for the trees too, but I’ll believe that when I see it. We still haven’t gotten the bicycles that we signed up to rent, but that’s because Rachel and Rockson (her assistant here in Tamale, not to be confused with Rockson our classmate) have had their hands full with last-minute repairs to the carpentry and plumbing and the like. Patience, as always, is the name of the game here.
I’m interested to see how our field course (titled Local Dynamics of Change) will go here in Tamale. It’s also going to be an adventure cooking and cleaning and taking care of myself again, especially here where shopping is such an adventure on its own. I’m sure it will be fun and awkward and hilarious. I’ll keep you posted!